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LKRC FULBECK
Technical information
Fulbeck Circuit was fully resurfaced in Tarmacadam in 1993. The track measures 930 mtrs – length of straight is approx. 160 mtrs.
Gear box classes – 927 mtrs with a straight of 260 mtrs.
A fully tarmacadam Pit Area with 48 marked out Pit Bays, with an additional large caravan camping area is available for overnight parking and camping. Co-operation is expected from all visitors and competitors.
The track is surrounded by farm land and all visitors and competitors are requested to KEEP OFF the crops.
HOW TO DRIVE THE CIRCUIT: (photographs with kind permission of Mrs Mac : TLP Photography)
TURN 1:
A long run to the first bend usually sorts out most drivers after the start but, if needed, the first turn does allow side by side racing on the first lap. The normal racing line is full left, braking before a conventional turn in. Once on the kerb hold this position to the apex. Let the kart run wide as the bend tightens allowing it to take up the full width of the track.
For gearbox karts this is the main overtaking point, being wide enough to offer a variety of lines for those who dive up the inside.
TURN 2:
Approach the right flip from the left hand side of the circuit, braking as you run to the right of the circuit beyond the kerb. Accelerate into the chicane braking just beyond the kerb, which you can run across. Exit, clipping the left hand kerb, straight lining the bend as much as possible to complete the manoeuvre on the right of the track.
TURN 3:
Approached from hard right this is a standard ninety left with either a dab of the brakes or a light lift. Start hard right cutting across to the kerb,
then running wide to the full outside as you exit the bend.
Overtaking is only possible if the driver ahead makes an error, but the exit from this bend is crucial if an overtaking opportunity is to be taken at the next turn.
TURN 4:
Running from the ninety left, ease the kart back from the right hand side of the track over to the left braking for the 180°. Turn in onto the kerb following it round to a wide exit. Let the kart run wide to the very edge of the track.
There are overtaking opportunities up the inside as you enter the bend.
This will make the exit more difficult, but provided that you do not run wide onto the soil you should be able to hold the position.
TURN 5:
Fulbeck is famous for its Pits Complex, which is approached from hard
right. Turn in onto the nearside kerb braking as you straight line the bend.
A driver with a good exit from Turn 4 may take the inside here. Hug the
kerb the the 180° loop accelerating wide for the next 90° right. Do not run
much wider than mid track as you pull back right, turning in early, missing
the kerb at the apex to run wide exiting the bend.
The exit to the complex is one of the most important turns on the circuit as it sets the driver up for the longest straight and most usable overtaking point.
General Technical Information
LEAD WEIGHTS
Lead should be fitted lower down if the driver is a bigger build and higher up for small or light drivers. The lighter or smaller driver may achieve better rear wheel grip if the lead is higher on the seat, the heavier driver should try securing the weight to the sides of the seat to keep the kart balanced. Also use the weights to balance the kart all round, more towards the front to achieve better front end grip, and back for better rear end grip. In the wet have the weight as high as possible to achieve better grip all round.
REAR TRACK
Changes to the rear tracking is very important, moving the rear wheels in will cause the kart to grip the track a bit harder. Don't go in too far otherwise this will cause the kart to handle badly.
Moving the wheels out will give a better ride and it will also stop the rear of the kart from bouncing around the corners! When moving wheels in or out, only go about 10mm each side at a time and test it!
FRONT TRACK
If the kart is not turning into the corner properly try widening the front by 5-10mm each side this should reduce the front-end slide (understeer) and cause the steering to be more direct. Narrowing the front track will make the steering less responsive. The front wheel alignment should be set to 0mm - 2mm toe out, check with your karts supplier for the recommended settings.
WHAT IS THIS BLUEPRINTING THING?
When your engine was produced by the manufacturer, the various parts were made to an ideal size, give or take a bit. Unfortunately with all the parts giving or taking a bit you end up with an engine that is not all that ideal. On the other hand, if you have an engine made up from all ideal parts, you have a real beauty and don't let it out of your sight.
Blueprinting is just a method of adjusting or machining parts to bring them back to the specified tolerance without giving or taking. This is a highly specialised job, and should be done by experts in conjunction with the latest rule book.
TURN 6:
Turn in to straight line the entrance to this chicane. Brake as you cut across the track keeping well to the right but missing the kerb. Turn in to a late apex running wide over the exit kerb before letting the kart use the full width of the circuit. The most used overtaking point for direct drive karts - if an opportunity opens up to nip inside a leading driver, it is well worth
carrying it through.
OVERSTEER TROUBLE SHOOTING
This is where on turning the wheel, the kart immediately and rapidly changes direction, the rear end breaks away, which results in a spin, or rear end slide. This is down to insufficient rear end grip - as the turn is started, the inside wheel lifts, but the outside rear cannot cope with the extra cornering forces involved, and breaks away. So we either have approached the corner too fast - and hence corner forces have overcome the grip of the tyre, or the tyre isn't producing the required level of grip. If the inside wheel is lifting a long way, this can cause grip problems since the tyre is at a larger angle to the track. Kart tyres do not react well to large angles of attack. This normally indicates that there is probably a problem with the chassis more than the front geometry. It is flexing too far and allowing the rear too far off the track. Moving the rear hubs outwards can improve this situation, since a wider stance makes it harder for the cornering forces to lift the inside rear, thereby decreasing the amount it will lift in any given corner. If the back breaks away under braking or acceleration, then it's possible the rears are too far apart. It could be that the tyres are at the wrong pressure - and therefore not at the right temperature to produce the required grip level. So the best option is to try different pressures during testing, once initial handling has been sorted out.
WET WEATHER
In the wet, cornering is done much more slowly, and you cannot accelerate as fast, or brake as heavily because of the lower grip levels available. Lower corner speeds means you do not get the same level of cornering force, so the inside rear may not lift
correctly, or even at all. Moving the front wheels outward emphasises the twisting effect, improving initial turn in.
In effect the front geometry has more of an effect throughout the corner in wet weather than in dry. Because you still have the same amount of power available, in low grip conditions the grip levels are exceeded more easily when applying power, causing
rapid spin out. Moving the rear wheels in reduces this effect, so more power can be applied without breaking rear end grip. Some people refer to moving the rears inwards as increasing grip.
This is not strictly true - the grip levels remain the same, but the power can be applied more efficiently.
Effect of tyre inflation pressures:
General Troubleshooting:
